A Ride To Remember — Exploring The Magical Landscapes Of Ladakh On The Honda CB350

Motorcycle tourism and two-wheeled roadtrips have increased manifold in India over the last few years. Several new motorcycling destinations have been added to many a bucket list and riders have set about ticking each one of these destinations off their respective lists. However, there's one common destination that is found on the to-ride list of every motorcycle touring enthusiast.

This particular destination is unique in the fact that riders aren't satisfied with riding there just once. The magic of this place is such that, riders keep adding it back to their bucket list just hours if not minutes after they have ridden there already. Yes, it is Ladakh and the surroundings thereof, that we are referring to.

So what is it that keeps riders coming back to Ladakh? What is it like to ride high up in the mountains? Is it an easy task to ride in Ladakh? How do you prep for this ride? We set out to find answers to these questions during the course of the Honda Sunchasers Ladakh ride in September 2022.

Honda Motorcycles & Scooters India and its premium motorcycles outlet BigWing organised a brief ride in and around the region to give us a taste of the mountains and of the Honda CB350 Highness & CB350 RS motorcycles. The ride was called 'Honda BigWing Sunchasers - A Higher Chase,' and saw us riding around Ladakh for all of five days. Read on to journey with us into the mountains.

Day 1: Arrive & Acclimatise

Ladakh is a land of culture and of high mountain passes and is located at a high altitude. Exploring cultures might not usually be physically strenuous. However, climbing up the stairs to visit a monastery requires some strength at this high altitude. Then comes the challenge of riding up the high mountain passes, which does require physical effort.

Acclimatising your body to the high altitude is key, for a successful ride up in the mountains and that is exactly what Day 1 was dedicated to. The agenda for the day was simple, arrive in Leh and rest it out. We took an early flight out of Bangalore and headed to Delhi where we switched flights. The next flight (DEL-IXL) promised some scenic views and so, a window seat was acquired.

The views from the aircraft were spectacular. Even though it wasn't the season for snowfall, there were snow-capped mountains that were a delight to our eyes. Within no time, we were approaching the airport at Leh, which is also a defence airport, so my eyes were on the lookout for an IAF aircraft or two.

Upon landing, while taxiing toward the terminal, we did see an AN-32 small transport aircraft of the Indian Air Force but that wasn't exactly what I was on the lookout for. More on this later. It was time to head to the hotel. As it turns out, we were to stay at the Hotel Grand Dragon, which is one of the premier hotels in the city of Leh.

The ride would be challenging and in some cases need more than just acclimatisation. A list of medicines was sent to us in advance and we were carrying some of those medicines with us, in case they were needed. Day 1 was spent relaxing in our hotel room while our bodies adjusted to the thinner air and lower oxygen levels at 3,500 metres above sea level.

The organisers had put together a cultural program in the evening wherein, Ladakhi folk song and dance was showcased, and a short ride briefing was conducted by Vijay Parmar, the ride lead. Post dinner, we head to bed as we were to start riding the next day.

Day 2: The Monastery Run

As aforementioned, Ladakh is a land rich in heritage and culture. Buddhism is one of the largest religions in the region and has been around for hundreds of years. Hundreds of monasteries are found in the region and each one is unique. However, there are some that are unique and have a story to tell.

Day 2 of the Honda Sunchasers - A Higher Chase ride was dedicated to visiting these monasteries. Three monasteries were chosen for the ride, and the total ride distance for the day was set to be around 97 kilometres.

First up was the Thikse monastery. A quick 19-kilometre ride later, we reached this monastery. This is the largest gompa in central Ladakh and bears resemblance to the Potala Palace in Tibet. Near the entrance to the monastery is a wall with thousands of stones on top of it. Each of these stones has a prayer written on it!

From the Thikse Monastery, it was time to head toward the Stakna Monastery. Stakna is a smaller monastery and parts of it were under renovation during our visit. However, the views experienced while heading to Stakna are unparalleled. The convoy of Honda CB350 motorcycles climbing up the loops was a sight to witness.

To reach the Stakna Monastery, we had to ride on a bridge over the Indus river. The cold blue waters of the Indus river along with some grassland make for great views from the Stakna Monastery. From the Stakna monastery, one also gets a view of the Thikse Monastery in the distance, which is around 8.4 kilometres away, by road.

From Stakna, it was time to head to what is often referred to, as the wealthiest monastery in the region. It is the Hemis monastery and this was the spot we spent quite a lot of time at. The ride to Hemis was equally fascinating too. We were on a road that runs parallel to the Indus river, and there were a couple of small water crossings where we gladly splashed lots of water around.

Nearing Hemis, we started climbing up, and lots of curves were in sight, and once we were done with the final corner, the Hemis Monastery was in sight. We climbed up the stairs and went up to the monastery. The monastery is calm and quiet with serene views all around. The ride organisers as well as the leadership team from Honda were all around, in the monastery.

While some turned the prayer wheels, others just observed. While some captured images, the others still were trying to acclimatise to the lower oxygen levels. Post this, it was time to head back, only stopping for lunch on the way back.

Lunch awaited us at the Ladakh Sarai, which is a quaint little resort on the outskirts of Leh. The ride to Ladakh Sarai was unforgettable for one main reason - the Indian Air Force Sukhoi SU-30 MKI. Watching two of these frontline fighter jets perform maneuvers in the valleys of Ladakh with the mountains in the background was a goosebump-inducing moment.

After a multiple-course proper Ladakhi-style meal, it was time to refuel our motorcycles and head back to the Grand Dragon. Day 2 was a short ride and was planned in a way that we wouldn't push our bodies beyond their limit, as it was still accimatising time. Day 3 though, was something else.

Day 3: Run To The Hills, Or Maybe Not

Every motorcycle touring enthusiast in India knows Khardung La. For a long long time, Khardung La was the highest motorable road in the world. Now though, Umling La has snatched the crown. However, Khardung La still remains the second-highest in the world, and on Day 3 of the Honda Sunchasers ride, we were all set to conquer the mighty Khardung La, or were we?

The ride was supposed to be flagged off at 7am, but there were a few weather-related delays. It was raining, albeit not so heavily. However, this meant there could be snowfall on the way. The prospect of snowfall on the way to Khardung La was something that excited many of us and scared many more.

Finally, we were underway and we soon started climbing. The Honda CB350 Highness and CB350 RS motorcycles we were riding soon started showing some signs of altitude sickness. Keeping the revs higher and gears lower definitely helped in keeping it going.

It wasn't long before we got our first sight of snowfall. It was very clear that temperatures had dipped just below zero and my fingers were freezing. Just an hour out of Leh, we reached South Pullu. By this time, it was clear that heavy snowfall lay ahead. The Army checkpost at South Pullu asked us motorcyclists not to go ahead, as the heavy snowfall was making it difficult even for cars.

Our long wait had only just begun. The plan for the day was to ride over Khardung La, then head to Nubra Valley. However, to reach Khardung La, we needed to cross South Pullu and then North Pullu. If South Pullu was freezing and experiencing lots of snowfall, North Pullu would be worse.

We were riding with experienced ride leads and had multiple backup vehicles including two Toyota Fortuners, Two Isuzu D-Max V-Cross pickup trucks, and several Toyota Innovas. One of the Fortuners went ahead to perform a recce and confirmed that the road ahead is indeed too treacherous for motorcycles and we simply had to wait it out, in the cold!

A couple of hours of waiting later, the sun was out and it did look like we could make it. However, a few minutes later, snowfall increased and we were asked to turn around and go back to Leh. While this did complicate things a bit for the ride organisers, it was obviously the safer choice and with a heavy heart, we rode back to Leh.

A new hotel booking and some waiting time for the luggage to arrive later, we were settled in our cozy little room. Khardung La ambitions would have to wait for our next ride in the mountains. Day 4 though, had some other plans for us.

Day 4: Real Adventure & Some Pangong

Though we had been riding in Ladakh for two days now, we were yet to cross a proper mountain pass and the itch to complete a proper mountain pass crossing was becoming stronger with the minute. The destination for the ride on Day 4 was the well-known Pangong Tso. This pristine and now commercialised mountain lake is unique for a number of reasons. Before we get to its uniqueness, let's talk about the ride there.

Pangong Tso is 164 kilometres away from Leh and to get there, we would have to ride on some of the most scenic vistas and the iconic Chang La pass. Leh is at an altitude of 3,500 metres while Chang La is much higher, at 5,391 metres. Once across Chang La, we would have to climb down to a comparatively lower altitude of 4,350 metres which is where Pangong Tso stands.

It was an early start and we headed out of Leh in a convoy. Over 25 Honda CB350 Highness and CB350 RS motorcycles, led by Mr Vijay Parmar up front astride a Honda CB500X while Ravish and Arjun from Xplorearth took turns being on sweep duties. We headed towards Hemis and then turned North-North East towards Sakti.

Soon, snow-clad mountains were in sight and the next thing we knew was, we were riding through them. The roads were narrow and tarmac gave way to dirt roads. Albeit, the dirt soon was covered in snow. Then it started snowing too, and this was a sight to behold. The views were absolutely spectacular and one really has to experience it to know just how beautiful it is.

The road to Chang La was treacherous, at least for the road-based motorcycles we were riding. We were riding these almost cruiser-like motorcycles in proper ADV conditions and the motorcycle did not like it when the revs were low. As long as the engine revs were pretty high, the Honda CB350 Highness and CB350 RS powered through.

Soon, we encountered black ice. This for horrific for some of us as we were on road-going tyres. These tyres have almost no grip in such conditions and some riders did end up falling at low speed on some patches of black ice. However, most of us powered through and helped the others through as well. Chang La was well within sight by now.

Reaching Chang La amidst lots of snowfall was a huge relief. It is a beautiful little pass with an opportunity to stop and take photographs and quite a few tourists were here. However we had to press on because we now had to descend, in heavy snowfall and with black ice on the roads. Needless to say, it was an adventure of a lifetime doing so.

Soon, the icy road gave way to proper dirt roads and we were standing on the footpeg and munching miles. Durbuk was within sight. A quick downhill ride and countless curves later, we halted at Durbuk for a little break. Durbuk is primarily an Army settlement with lots of heavy machinery and hundreds if not thousands of soldiers.

From here on, it was beautiful winding roads and brilliant tarmac thanks to the efforts of the Border Roads Organisation (BRO). It was a fabulous ride so far and we couldn't wait to get a good view of our destination.

Pangong Tso was now in sight! The first view is always the best, as it leaves you in absolute awe. The Pangong lake is the highest freshwater lake in the world and it looks stunning. Lunch was arranged at a restaurant with a brilliant view of the width of the Pangong Tso. Post lunch, it was a quick ride to Man Village tourist camp where we would stay the night.

The Pangong Sarai camps resort was located just a couple of hundred feet away from the shores of the Pangong lake. It consisted of several cozy individual huts with water heaters, which is a necessity in a cold environment like the Pangong Tso. Generators are shut off pretty early and the lights go off soon too, this meant going to bed early. It was a long 164-kilometre ride and we had a long ride coming up the next day too.

Day 5: So Pangong & So Long A Ride Back To Leh

Pangong Tso is unique for a number of reasons. Firstly, it is the highest saltwater lake in the world. Then there's the fact that only 40 percent of it lies in India, 10 percent of it is located in a disputed buffer zone between India and China, and the bigger 50 percent of it lies in China. The Indian side of Pangong Tso is wide while the Chinese side is narrower. However, it is longer in China.

The lake has a total length of around 134 kilometres and measures 5 kilometres at its widest point. It is massive, with a total surface area of around 700 square kilometres and this places it firmly in the top 50 largest lakes in the world. Pangong Tso measures 330 feet at its deepest point. It is also the only Inland water body where the Indian Navy has a significant presence. The Indian Navy operates a few armed fast patrol boats on Pangong Tso.

After spending a couple of hours of Day 5 admiring the pristine lake, it was time for us to head back. We rode alongside the Pangong lake for about half an hour, covering 18 kilometres, and then it was back to the twisties. We got back onto the dirt road we rode on, the previous day, at high speeds. We reached Durbuk and it was time to take a diversion at Durbuk.

Instead of heading back via Chang La, day 5 would see us cross over at Wari La. This was less challenging than Chang La but gave us the best views yet. The route to Wari La saw us head North from Durbuk and then North-West towards Shyok. From this point on, we rode alongside the Shyok river until Agham, covering a distance of 46.8 kilometres. From Agham, it was time to head South towards Wari La.

This route took us through some of the famed mountainside grasslands where we were able to spot some Ladakhi wildlife. This included lots of native trees, some large high-flying birds and some small birds too. We did spot quite a few Marmots and a few wild rabbits too. It was such a joy to see these animals in their natural habitat.

Wari La is at an elevation of 5,315 metres, making it one of the highest roads in India. It also meant, riding through the snow once again, and this also entailed some really bad terrain. Soon, we were over Wari La and riding downhill toward Sakti. Brilliant views of the Himalayan mountain ranges awaited us. Soon, we had finished riding through the loops and we then reached Karu where we regrouped.

Karu to Leh was pretty straightforward and we soon arrived at the Grand Dragon in Leh, which is where we started this whole journey.

Day 6: Time To Pack Up & Head Home

Day 6 saw us head back to the Leh Airport with a heavy heart as we were leaving the serene mountains for our flight back home. It had been a brilliant ride and gave us a great taste of what the mountains are like. We left, vowing to be back for more.

How Did The Honda CB350 Highness & CB350 RS Perform In the High Altitude and Rough Stuff?

The motorcycle you are riding makes a big difference during a ride like this. Typically, terrain like this calls for proper ADV motorcycles, however, we were out to prove the reliability, quality, and capability of the Honda CB350 twins. These motorcycles, as it turns out, are very capable indeed. Some of the terrain we pushed them through could put an ADV to shame.

The CB350 twins are powered by an air-cooled, 350cc, single-cylinder engine that puts out 20.7bhp at 5,500rpm and 30Nm at 3,000rpm. The peak torque comes in at relatively low engine speeds, and that is great. However, the gearing is very tall and we were riding at high altitudes.

Tall gearing and high altitudes do not make a great combination for a naturally-aspirated engine as the engine will struggle to get up to speed. The oxygen required for ideal combustion inside the cylinder is rarely found and this simply meant, quite a few riders were struggling to get the engine to rev. However, the right throttle modulation is key and once the engine speed was up, the Honda CB350 twins powered through everything thrown at them.

There is one factor that we just can't miss. The bad roads, no roads, and off-road terrain that the mountains throw at motorcycles generally result in some bent wheels or loose body panels. Some other common ADV motorcycles found in India have often come back with punctures, bent wheels, loose nuts, etc.

The Honda CB350 motorcycles would have none of that. None of the motorcycles suffered a puncture and none of them had loose body panels. At the end of the ride, the motorcycle still rode as smooth as it did when we started the ride. This is a huge compliment in itself.

Final Thoughts About The Honda Sunchasers Ride In Ladakh

I need to go back! This is the exact thought in my mind as I come to the end of penning down this article. That is what the mountains do to you. You just cannot have enough of it. Yes, there are some who just cannot adjust to the high altitude. One of the riders on our ride had to be brought back to Leh in the Ambulance that was traveling with us. A few others too, just couldn't adjust to the height and the lack of oxygen.

However, if you are able to get used to the altitude, you would want to go back almost immediately. This ride has left us with fond memories, a newfound respect for the Honda CB350 Highness & CB350 RS, and an irresistible urge to go back into the mountains. Time to say "Julley!" to the mountains once again will soon come.